Trinidad rum, past & present

[JaRiMi]

With respects to rum experts such as Mr. Dave Broom, I think he and others may be more passionate over the flavours of Demerara or the history of Cuba, but to exclude Trinidad as a major rum history chapter is an oversight in my humble opinion. Even in the days of potstill distillation references mention that "Trinidad rum is lighter in style than other island's produce".

Trinidad (and Tobago, although it was a separately governed island state until the end of 19th century when annexed by the British to Trinidad in 1888, for the fact that the islands’ plantation owners went more or less bankrupt due to sugar prices falling to an all-time low), has a long history of rum production and sugar cane cultivation.

I think one reason why Trinidad is not so often mentioned in rum history is the fact that the island changed hands several times during its history, going from being a Spanish colony (claimed for Spanish crown in 1498) which attracted many French colonists after the French revolution when the ripples of its changes reached French Caribbean colonies; and finally ending in the hands of the British in 1797.

In comparison, Barbados was always under British rule, and Jamaica had fallen to British hands already in 1670. Tobago on the other hand passed hands between French, Dutch, Latvians and British during its history, changing masters 22 times only to finally end in British ownership from 1814 onwards.

Unlike on many other smaller or more isolated Caribbean islands, early settlers found it hard to settle Trinidad, a large and untamed island full of South American wildlife and Caribe Indians (Trinidad is only 12km away from the South American mainland). The pace of development accelerated much with the French arriving in force in 1780’s, and large areas near Port-of-Spain, the capital, and nearby valley of Diego Martin, so named after Spanish ruler Don Diego, were cleared for inhabitation and cane growing.

What was it like? One author says this:

“The Spanish authorities could hardly handle the locals - much less the high style emigré French creoles. No one really expected that the French Revolution would send whole communities of French creoles with their slaves, 'octaroon' mistresses and 'pass-for-white' children tumbling in backwater Trinidad by the the 1790s. In that period, the town grew not as a result of town planning, but inspite of it.

The town was a haven for the flotsam and jetsam of the Caribbean in 1797. It was peopled by half-caste Spaniards, broad-nosed Zambos, high-strung mestizo women, French republican soldiers, retires pirates, French nobility and the ghosts of the conquistadors who had died in the previous centuries in search of El Dorado, eaten by the anthropomorgai people in the jungles of Guairia.

All this disorder gave the English their chance. With war generally in the air and Governor Chacon fearful of republicanism, they took the island in 1797 without hardly a shot being fired. although it was reported that the guns at Fort St. Andres fired round after round.”

What of sugarcane then? In Tobago, the Dutch had most likely introduced sugar cane to Tobago already in 1627. This had made them well established, wealthy and well respected in Europe, where a saying “Rich as a Tobago planter” became a saying later on. In Trinidad it was not until 1780’s when Mr. Picot de Lapeyrouse established the first sugar cane estate on the island, as the Otaheite “Noble” variety of cane had been introduced by St. Hilaire Begorrat apparently sometime earlier. The land was found to be very good for sugar cultivation, and unlike in many other Caribbean nations, sugar has been grown in Trinidad in large-scale until very recently.

Rum was first a produce of sugar cane estates where it was made in the traditional pot-still. Bristol Spirits notes of Trinidad rum on their information booklet that “..even when pot-stills were widely used on the island, their rums were traditionally amongst the lightest. Wooden stills were replaced and modern patent stills introduced around 1920.”

Trinidadian (and quite possibly Tobagonian) rum was used in Navy rum mixtures throughout the 19th and 20th Century and was just as important ingredient as was the produce of Guyana, Barbados or Jamaica. It is still an intergral part of the Pusser’s Navy rum recipe, following the old British navy’s traditional recipe.

One important player in Trinidadian rum history is the Fernandes family – Peter’s rum pages has copied the story of the Fernandes family & rums (and a good thing he has, since Angostura ltd. Has bought the company and the original website no longer exists!). It states the following:

“..By 1880 Manuel Fernandes left Madeira in search of a better life and the New World, …he arrived in Port of Spain with his wife and two sons aged five and eight years old.

Manuel settled at 25 Henry Street and soon established an import business of wines and spirits. By 1895 Manuel and his family became neutralised British.

It was not long before Manuel Fernandes distinguished himself with the award of a gold medal for Fernandes Old Rum at the Crystal Palace London Exhibition of 1905. For twenty five years the Fernandes rum brands developed in stature gaining more and more ground in the marketplace, under the diligent direction of son Joseph Gregorio and his brother in law Joao Ferreira, a master blender. It was during this period that Joao Ferreira earned himself his reputation, winning medals for blending white rums and Wormwood Bitters at an International Exhibition in New Zealand in 19...
Just two years after the loss of his father Joseph Bento and Joao Ferreira seized an opportunity that presented itself after the fire of 1932, a fire that destroyed the Trinidad British government Rum Bond. Fernandes & Co., acquired the fire sale stocks of rum for blending at a good price and on discovering that the spirit had been distilled thirteen years earlier called it "1919" AGED RUM, it was the forerunner of the most successful of the Fernandes brands for thirty years with the named changed to Vat 19 when the original stocks ran out.

Joseph Bento was weary of being tied to the sugar estates for his supply of raw material. In 1933 he acquired from Henderson Forres Park sugar estate at Claxton Bay…It took years to rebuild the derelict Forres Park into an efficient and productive factory, eventually achieving 8.2 tons of cane to 1 ton of sugar. Scores not attainable today. Meanwhile Joseph Bento tinkered with the wooden still he knew was in the Forres Park compound and practised his hand at distilling and making rums that would be the foundation of his next venture.

In the late 1940's Joseph Bento had planned to build a new and modern distillery, to this end he acquired land at Morvant junction from Mendes and spent as much draining and filling as he had on purchasing this swampy tract. “

In general in the 20th century, due to being the one British island where sugar cane was still grown in large scale, rum production in Trinidad grew significantly whereas it somewhat slumped in many other regions.

The current single big player in Trinidad’s rum market is of course Angostura Ltd. Their history in rum-making is not very long, but their success has been remarkable, not in the least due to the vast amounts of sugar cane growing right next doors in Caroni region of Trinidad especially.

Company states this of their involvement in rum:

“By the turn of the century, the Company ventured into the rum market, at first just in bottling bulk rum from other distillers. After years of intensive research in fermentation and distillation processes, the Company installed a state-of-the-art distillery in 1945 heralding its entry into the production of rum on a major scale.

By the end of 1960, the Company had extended distribution of its products to over 140 countries across the world, becoming well known internationally for its high quality rums in addition to the now world famous Angostura aromatic bitters.”

Angostura Ltd. has now the phenomenal rectification capacity of 50 million litres / year, making it the biggest distillation plant of the English-speaking Caribbean. The company has two gigantic column stills with which they produce a variety of styles. Also Angostura Ltd. has purchased most of the now closed government Caroni distillery’s aged rums in a bulk deal that was heavily criticized locally for its low price.

Angostura supplied (and still does) bulk rums to all corners of the world – Bacardi, Captain Morgan etc. are just a few brands that use Angostura rums in them. At one time, according to inside information from the company, Bacardi used to buy & use in their rums a ready-made blend used by Angostura for their “Royal Oak” rum. Master blender Patrick Patel did not verify if this is true sadly. Bacardi owned 45% of the Angostura stock until in 1997 CL Financial bought them out – however in terms of bulk rum sales, the co-operation has continued. The ownership change allowed Angostura to market their own brands internationally.

Angostura uses only charred ex-bourbon barrels for ageing their rums, and rums are charcoal filtered to a degree based on their age. The maximum age of rum in their warehouse is 15 years, and the company people really suspect many other manufacturers in the Caribbean boasting with age statements that are not possible. (This is of course possible, since no law controls this fact).

During the rum-making process, the fermentation takes an average of 48 hours and the alcohol-content of that brew before actual distillation is 10%. Rum is casked at 70% alcohol content, higher than what whisky industry uses these days (around 63% I believe).

Hope you have the energy to read through all this..!

[Count Silvio]

Despite my energy being low after having spent all day outside in the sun, it was a pleasure to read it all. JaRiMi, thank you for this incredibly in depth post, or should I say article? You have really researched this subject well, you having lived in Trinidad probaly has taught you a lot about the country. It is true what you say, I don't see that that much about Trinidad when reading about rum history.

Another interesting piece of Angostura history I didn't see you mention, is the story mentioned in the box of Angostura 1919:

"With the declaration of World War II in 1939, Trinidad and Tobago troops volunteered to serve on the battlefronts in Europe. The Company decided to send a bottle f the 1919 "Super" Premium Rum on a regular basis to each of our airmen serving overseas. Through their generousity they soon came to share our rum with their foreign colleagues - and thus our product became known in the wider world and our 1919 "Super" Premium Rum came to symbolize the spirit of Trinidad & Tobago."

With your permission JaRiMi, I would like to post this article to the frontpage under your name. I feel this kind of quality article would be better seen there would it not?

[Capn Jimbo]

Nice overview. BTW, the long section on Fernandez should be credited to Luis Ayala, from his book "The Rum Experience". Personally, I find the Trinidadian rums a real mish mosh of tastes, body and style. The fractured history and changes of government disallowed any real recognized continuity of product or style.

I've a bottle of Fernandes 19 (which I'm still evaluating) and also the Angostura Old Oak (which I quickly gave away), but neither struck me very positively at first blush. On the other hand one product that indeed has demonstrated both continuity and style isn't rum at all, it's Angostura Bitters.

Great history, great story there. Let's not forget Calypso, "Rum and Coca Cola" and Morrey Amsterdam. It may well be that Trinidad may yet establish a modern style, that of rum as liqueur, eg. 1919 and Pyrat XO. Not my taste at all but perhaps a style in the making. Only time will tell.

Speaking of which, thanks for taking the time for a very informative compiliation.

[JaRiMi]

Capn, I do not believe Mr. Ayala is the original author of that quote, even if he used it in his book. I have the book and I am sorry to say, as much as I applaud his enthusiasm, Mr. Ayala has borrowed tons of material from various other sources, without accrediting the original sources in any way in his book "The Rum Experience". Many pages contain word for word copyings of different sources, as well as other information which has been borrowed without permission and not giving a list of sources, as is customary in commercial books.

Page 37 - 38 for example quotes a UWI study made by student of Mona campus, and even erraneously repeats a rather simplistic view that "rum is older than whisky" as a spirit simply because first official licensed production was happening in Barbados already in 1703 - and earliest licensed whisky distilleries in Scotland date to circa 1786. The West Indian persons who first wrote this bit (which Mr. Ayala borrows in earnest, but fails to accredit) had more than a touch of good West Indian pride clouding their senses: It was the ENGLISH & SCOTTISH people who came to Barbados, and BROUGHT WITH THEM their skills and tools for distillation: So regardless of when the English finally granted licenses to the Scottish for distilleries, it is quite obvious that whisky was made long before any rum was being distilled in the West Indies - unless carib/Arawak/Taino indian tribes owned pot stills. (original material behind this link http://wwwchem.uwimona.edu.jm:1104/lectures/sugar.html .

I pointed Mr. Ayala to some of his source materials (pages 58 - 66, prohibition times and rum running) when he was writing the book - and to my astonishment when I saw the book's first copies, he had printed other person's texts, photos borrowed from internet, without mentioning his true sources which included materials from US coast guard website. If this book had been published via commercial publishers, rather than as a home published book, Mr. Ayala might be in some amount of trouble.

Similarly most of his tasting notes, and text which talks of different distilleries, are simply copy-pasted from manufacturer's websites or broschures - and so it is also with the Fernandes text.

In all earnest, this to me does not fullfill the requirements of "original work" published as one author's work. I personally did not know what to say to Mr. Ayala when I saw "his" book - its absolute plagiarism.

In the same context, Count, I am fine with you putting this piece as an article on your site, but I must send you first information about the sources I quoted in it - lets keep it all the way proper.

[Capn Jimbo]

Yes, I wondered that when I saw that your section on Fernandez was a direct quote from Ayala. I'd love to know the original source of that quote (maybe I'll be buying yet another book)... can you share it?

I do know that Curtis, Williams, Broom and Couloumbe include some extensive bibliographies, unlike Ayala. I applaud his efforts and compiliation, but he really should have been honest about his sources. I agree with you about the Barbadian origin based on imported indentured workers who'd had plenty of experience making rough spirits from grain.

The first mention of whiskey distillation (per Williams) was in the Scottish Exchequer rolls of 1494. That would appear to predate rum, even considering possible distillation in Brazil prior to Barbadoes waters.

Speaking of Fernandez, I finally did a tasting, more anon, but let's just say that Fernandez "19" and Angostura "1919" are quite related.

[JaRiMi]

The original source (as also quoted on Peter's rum pages) for the history of Fernandes is their website - which no longer exists saly, since Angostura bought Fernandes (it is written with an S at the end, because the name is Portugese, rather than Spanish). I think the story was written by the company's own historians. Fernandes name and rum blends are now a part of disappearing Trinidadian rum history - but life goes on, as they say (and money talks).

I really enjoyed my conversations with Mr. Ayala and he has never offenced me or treated me with nothing but kindness. However, I really have to say the book left me absolutely baffled.


As for distillation in the Americas, it is always good to remember that the art of distillation and early pot stills were indeed brought to the "New World" by European - who in turn had had been distilling various kinds of alcohols at home for some centuries, after apparently having learned the art of distillation from people of Arabic origin. These early highly alcoholic beverages were often called in latin "Aqua vitae", and whisky gained its early local gaelic name "Uisge Beatha" from the same origin - water of life.

Fernandes VAT 19 was as I recall ( and I must say, I haven't had it in years and years) a typical Trinidadian rum, very much like the Caroni Special Old Cask (bottled in 1998) I am now sipping:

Nose shows vanilla infused with faint molasses, dried orange peel powder, light and pleasant.

Palate is truly light and "golden", soft aromas of vanilla, a hint of the same dried orange peel, a touch of oak towards the end; dry, light and "pure" (without the heavier motor oil or diesel-like flavours that nowadays are often present in Trinidadian rums for some reason).

Aftertaste is warming, extremely smooth and of medium length.

How pleasant can a light, aged rum be?! In style this is far lighter than nowadays Bacardi rums, but also far drier and less rich and floral. It is all about perfection of balance - a Lowlander in Scottish terms, I feel. I would call this the Rosebank of Rum world. For years, this was the definition of rum for me, until I tasted more varieties. In any case I am sad to see how such rums are disappearing slowly from existence.

I think the motor oil flavours present in many of current Trinidad bottlings are the result of the "heavy" distillation rums they started making, in order to keep up with changing tastes. Call me a purist, but they do not belong in Trinidadian rums. On the other hand I do welcome new experiment such as Angostura 1824 which is so very rich in its palette of aromas.

Cap'n J, nice website by the way. Was sorry to read about your departure from the ministry of rum - I was there for a short while many years ago, but did not find it very interesting to be honest (lack of even slightly critical views was one reason).

In any case, talking about the prestigious rhum Agricoles of Martinique, I must concur I never tasted a Martinique or Guadeloupe rhum that I would have truly enjoyed, and I have had old ones from 70's as well as younger ones. They are simply too much firewater for my palate, no matter how noble their pedigree por methods of making & ageing may be - but this is of course only my humble opinion.

I once speculated that the in the old days, the French made the rum making laws in their colonies such that they could be relatively certain that this colonial inferior product could never really compete with the truly French produce, such as cognac and armagnac (which are far smoother than French colonial rums). At the same time, they invented this division of noble "rhum agricoles" and lesser quality (?!?!) rhum industriels, out of spite for the British. One must remember that colonies, their people and their products were not hooray'ed in a competeltive market where Mother country always held the upper hand. Oh well, go figure...This is by no means official history, just my personal musings. And yes - the best rhum agricole I have tasted to this age is - Rhum Barbancourt. Why? Because it does NOT taste like firewater, but is slightly creamy, smooth and exceptionally nice and beautiful. Things like Clement's older rums or 10 cane from Trinidad (now made by LVMH, most likely due to raw material still available in abundance on the island) are simply alcoholic, burning and well below par on my palate.

Score is in my books Rhum Industriel 10, Rhum Agricoles 1.

[Capn Jimbo]

I once speculated that the in the old days, the French made the rum making laws in their colonies such that they could be relatively certain that this colonial inferior product could never really compete with the truly French produce, such as cognac and armagnac (which are far smoother than French colonial rums). At the same time, they invented this division of noble "rhum agricoles" and lesser quality (?!?!) rhum industriels, out of spite for the British. One must remember that colonies, their people and their products were not hooray'ed in a competeltive market where Mother country always held the upper hand. Oh well, go figure...This is by no means official history, just my personal musings. And yes - the best rhum agricole I have tasted to this age is - Rhum Barbancourt. Why? Because it does NOT taste like firewater, but is slightly creamy, smooth and exceptionally nice and beautiful. Things like Clement's older rums or 10 cane from Trinidad (now made by LVMH, most likely due to raw material still available in abundance on the island) are simply alcoholic, burning and well below par on my palate.

Score is in my books Rhum Industriel 10, Rhum Agricoles 1.

Home run!

With over 150 years to do so, the vaunted "agricoles", which I prefer to more properly call "cane juice rums" (no faux "h" for me), these rums have failed to capture more than a puny share of sales, I think around 3%. I became convinced the "AOC" was most certainly a marketing ploy, having once observed that, in marketing, if you can't sell it, go out of business or raise your prices. And raise em and raise em. Good grief.

But your observation - that the French intention may have been to hogtie rather than promote makes a lot of sense, historically and otherwise. And having done so found it unacceptable to go back. Ergo harsh and WAY overpriced products promoted for their phony "terroir" and "nearness to the cane" (read necessary marketing to justify outrageous prices), but whose cane "flavors" are then hidden in "ti Punches" or aged to soften the terroir (at even higher, astronomical prices).

The very few highly rated (and even higher priced) cane juice rums from Martinique are those that are farthest from the source, where the cane juice "terroir" is least evident.

As for Barbancourt, it is well known that there is no love lost with France. Haiti took its freedom but at a terrible cost. Napolean made sure of that. Accordingly you can be sure the words "rhum agricole" will never appear on these absolutely honest and legitimate cane juice products. Barbancourt is what cane juice rums should be and the French know it.

As an interesting aside I found a note that "rhum agricole's" first meaning was derogatory and may have been used to insult peasant made "clairin" in Haiti. That the very same French later turned the phrase into a positive for their own "rhum agricole" is a delicious contradiction. Maybe they were right the first time, ha!

Which leads me to the Ministry, where the webmaster represents, imports and promotes La Favorite and Neisson. And - spends the rest of his time promoting commercial "competitions". With that in mind, it's no surprise that there is a strong bias toward "agricoles" (which are incorrectly defined there based on the Martinique AOC standards), that even remotely critical posts are discouraged or deleted, and that no real and forthright reviews can be found. A commercial website cannot afford to bite the bottle that pours the damn dram, lol...

What is most interesting is that the site tries to appear non-commercial, when it is not. I have told the whole story here. But as always, I digress.

Your description of the Caroni Cask is delicious and inspiring. It gives me a better understanding of your position on Trinidad. What a shame rums like this bit the dust. Dave Broom states "I have a soft spot for the local Black Label and Royal Oak". Sue Sea and I finally reviewed Angostura's Fernandes "19" (Link) but I am sure this is not the taste you love.

Are there any of the good Trinidadian rums available still that exemplify the older, lighter taste? We'd sure love to try one...

[JaRiMi]

But your observation - that the French intention may have been to hogtie rather than promote makes a lot of sense, historically and otherwise. And having done so found it unacceptable to go back. Ergo harsh and WAY overpriced products promoted for their phony "terroir" and "nearness to the cane" (read necessary marketing to justify outrageous prices), but whose cane "flavors" are then hidden in "ti Punches" or aged to soften the terroir (at even higher, astronomical prices).

I really would not be surprised if the French indeed did this on purpose, i.e. they made sure that their colonial product which was originally mainly made to satisfy the local island & sailor's needs, would never be able to really compete with the TRULY French products such as Cognac and Armagnac. Since their revolution, the French had during their history much dislike for the rich plantation owners, and colonies in the West Indies lost slowly their importance anyways. But the French have always been very skilled in promoting their produce, and also pricing it so that combined with the "Frenchness", the products would always attract certain crowd of people who wish to distinguish themselves from the masses.

Barbancourt is what cane juice rums should be and the French know it.

Well in my books it beats the heck out of any Martinique, Mauritius etc. rhums I have tasted, and is by far the best cane juice method rhum I have come across.

As an interesting aside I found a note that "rhum agricole's" first meaning was derogatory and may have been used to insult peasant made "clairin" in Haiti. That the very same French later turned the phrase into a positive for their own "rhum agricole" is a delicious contradiction. Maybe they were right the first time, ha!

Again, good marketing can do wonders. In these days when people seem to sometimes even over-appreciate handcrafted products, this type of marketing is possible - "Oui, t is better, because it is made in more primitive way, no monsieur?". Oui foote!!! Whatever.

Which leads me to the Ministry, where the webmaster represents, imports and promotes La Favorite and Neisson. And - spends the rest of his time promoting commercial "competitions". With that in mind, it's no surprise that there is a strong bias toward "agricoles" (which are incorrectly defined there based on the Martinique AOC standards), that even remotely critical posts are discouraged or deleted, and that no real and forthright reviews can be found. A commercial website cannot afford to bite the bottle that pours the damn dram, lol...

I think in all fairness Mr. Hamilton should refrain from commenting things when the discussion topics conflict with his personal commercial interests - of course it is ok to give information regarding the products and their making, but not to comment on things like quality, flavour, preference etc. It is quite obvious that anyone with one foot in the business will not have unbiased opinions, and an importer/promoter of a product should follow the guideline to stay away from topics that will compromise his/her integrity. You do not hear Laphroaig's distillery manager saying bad things about Auchentoshan, even if asked. He may say that both are great whiskies, but that he prefers his own produce, due to his personal taste. Thats as far as it will go.

Your description of the Caroni Cask is delicious and inspiring. It gives me a better understanding of your position on Trinidad. What a shame rums like this bit the dust. Dave Broom states "I have a soft spot for the local Black Label and Royal Oak".

I write passionately about Trini rums because they have a personal significance to me, but also because I have truly enjoyed the rums. In 2000's I have found many of the products have gone down in quality, or at least change in their flavour profile, and I complained about this whilst visiting Angostura. Fortunately they had just created the 1824, which I found was very, very different and somewhat difficult rum, but again a great masterpiece. Now as I plan to pop over to Rome, I am hoping to get at least some of the "Heavy" type Caroni rums added to my collection. As for the light style, I have found very few examples of the clean light style any more. Sadly since the products were made for local market, all went down the drinking way. It would be fabulous to find a stash of standard Trini rums, bottled somewhere between 1970 - 1990.

Mr. Rudy Moore of Caroni was exceptionally kind to help me get few bottles of the old Caroni stock - but as he said, all is now sold as bulk and no more exists.